• 6mm hex tool
• pin spanner (you can use needle nose pliers in a pinch)
• a ruler or tapeline

You should start by thoroughly cleaning and oiling your chain, and getting the area you plan to work spic and span. You don't want dust, gravel or any such thing to get into the BB and grind away like sand paper when you are finished, so treat the area as though you were a surgeon, and dirt was infection.

Now, before you begin, I need to caution you. I am not a bike mechanic, I just play one on my blog. If the directions I give you cause you to destroy your bike, and kill your dog - don't hold me responsible. I am simply telling you what "I" did to adjust "my" chain tension on "my" Seek 1.

One more word of advice. Before you begin, give your crank a turning by hand - listen carefully to it. Does the chain make a scratching sound? What does the weight feel like? When you are finished you want it to sound the same and the weight to feel the same, and if you don't pay attention beforehand, you won't have any point of reference to know if that scraping sound was always there, or was added by something you did.

I will describe the whole thing in steps, and with pics - but I want to just give a quick overview. First, relax. You don't need to take off the pedals, or pull out the BB - all you are going to do is loosen the bolts that clamp the BB casing, then using a pin spanner or some needle nose pliers, you are going to turn the EBB within the casing (by hand) which is going to tighten or loosen the chain, then you are going to measure the distance you can wiggle the chain to see if it is too loose or tight - when you are satisfied that all is well, you will again tighten the bolts that clamped down the BB casing.

So without further adieu:

STEP THREE (Identify the pins): On the LEFT side of the crank you will note two pin holes in the EBB (see photo)

The scratch on mine was there from the shop, I didn't put that there (btw). These are just little holes, they don't have anything in them, the whole point of having them there is so that you can put something in them to twist the EBB in the casing.

STEP FOUR (Rotate the EBB): Rotating the EBB one way brings the BB forward, and rotating the other way brings it backward. This of course moves the crank which tightens or loosens the chain. It shouldn't be difficult to do, especially if you have a proper spanner - but it isn't going to feel all loosie-goosie either. NOTE1: You won't have to rotate it much to get a big effect, so go slow, and go careful. NOTE2: If you don't have a spanner and are using something else - be extra careful. I did mine just as I was leaving work, and because I didn't have a spanner on my, I had to use my needle nose pliers - and in my haste they slipped out a couple of times.

I can't really remember whether it was clockwise or counter clockwise, but really, this is pretty intuitive at this point, if you turn it the wrong way, just turn it the other way. No biggie. What you are trying to do is rotate the EBB within the casing by putting something in the pin holes so that you can turn the EBB (see photo):

STEP FIVE (Measure the tension): For most bikes, you should have about a quarter of an inch play up and down on the chain when measured from the top. What you want to do is rotate the EBB until you find that sweet spot where you have only about a quarter inch chain play on the chain (see photo)

Note1: Don't get all crazy about making the measurement perfect. I mean, you should be able to eye-ball a quarter inch, especially if you put a ruler as your back drop when you measure it. But don't waste your time trying to make it "exactly" a quarter of an inch. Close enough if good enough for this measurement. Note2: The measurement is taken from the middle of the chain, as opposed to it's top or bottom. From the arrows it looks like you measure from the top of the chain, but it is supposed to be from the middle. I don't feel like doctoring another photo, so you will just have to know I mean 1/4" (6.35mm) from the centerline.

FINAL STEP (close it up!): When you got the BB where you want it, tighten the 6mm screws. Note1: Don't squish the gasket by tightening it more than it was when you started. I am sure there is some torque value you have to set it to, but I haven't been able to find it anywhere. But to keep you from destroying your bottom bracket, let me say this - don't over tighten the screws. Note2: Tighten the screws evenly - don't leave one tight, and the other loose.

Once you have done this once, you should be able to do it again with ease, so long as you have the tools on hand. As I have said, I am not a bike mechanic, but because I couldn't find any info on this myself (at least not in a timely manner - and especially for this particular bike), I opted to write this quick tutorial for other Seek owners. You can ask questions, but I can't guarantee my answers.